Tuesday, March 3, 2009

June 2008 - Before the Earthquake

Obviously, there is nothing you can do to prevent an earthquake, and prediction technology is still fairly limited. However, we do know enough about them to predict potential problems, and there are options for mitigating these issues. There may be some steps that work great with a 6.4 but fall short in the case of a 9.1, but each is at least worth considering.

Protecting the home structure

The good news is most homes here in the Pacific Northwest are made from wood, which has a tendency to move with the earthquake. This can prevent the house from completely falling apart which is a risk with stone and brick dwellings). However, the foundation should not move (at least not as much), and there is a possibility of the house slipping off of the foundation. You should make sure that your house is bolted to the foundation. If it was built after 1973, this was probably done automatically, but check.

Since 1973 the Uniform Building Code has also required that the cripple wall (also called pony wall) be braced, without those requirements increasing in 1991. This acts as a barrier to the vertical studs collapsing, letting the house collapse into the crawl space.

These repairs can be a do-it-yourself project, or done by a contractor. Since many of you are living in apartments or in newer homes, it is not practical to give instructions for these steps here, but instructions are readily available, and these two factors are probably the most important things you can do to prepare your home for an earthquake.

Other structural weak spots are “soft-stories”, like an apartment over a garage. Because the door needs to come up, there is limited bracing over a large space, limiting the support offered to the top story. On a smaller scale, you can have similar issues with large picture windows or double doors. Plywood sheathing can add reinforcement in these cases.

Chimneys can also be a vulnerable point, especially tall ones made of brick or stone. Having the chimney changed out for a shorter, solid metal one, or at least having the chimney reinforced, can prevent a collapse at that location.

If nothing else, at least knowing the weak areas in your home may give you a better idea of where to take shelter (like not by the fireplace).

Preventing fires

Gas appliances with rigid connections run the risk of being sheared off in an earthquake, leading to combustible gas leaks. Make sure you have flexible connections on all gas appliances (as well as knowing how to shut off the gas).

Preventing crushes

Fire prevention does include having a flexible connection for the water heater, but in addition the water heater should be strapped to the wall. Being heavy, tall, and full of hot water, an unsecured heater is likely to topple, leading to possible injury and probable mess. By the same token, water coolers should be strapped as well. Home improvement stores have commercial kits for water heaters, which should be able to be adapted to coolers as well.

Other appliances may be at the risk of toppling, even if they seem to be built in. One homeowner in Loma Prieta was surprised when his stove and microwave slide out of their settings. This can also be an issue with dishwashers. If they are only resting on a trim strip, bracing can be added.

Some tall structures at a risk of toppling can be secured to the wall. This can include bookcases, china hutches, and even refrigerators.

Preventing projectiles and lacerations

Even after you have secured the appliances in your kitchen, it is still probably the most dangerous room in the house in an earthquake. The trembling can open cupboard doors and shake out cereal boxes, jars, and plates, leaving a horrible mess even if you avoid injury. Adding latches that will prevent the cupboards from opening can protect you and your stuff. There are many types of latches out there, but you may find that the heavier, spring-loaded ones are more secure. You can also consider latches on drawers, and a child-safety lock on the refrigerator.

Large pictures and mirrors should be bolted to the wall. Smaller pictures can be hung on the walls with closed-loop hangers, reducing the likelihood of their falling down. For items on shelves, you may wish to consider laying down non-skid shelf padding (as used in boats and RVs) or hold-fast putties. Remember, this is not just about having less to clean up later, but also having fewer things that can hit you in the head, and less broken glass to walk on. Fishing wire, bungee cords, and old socks with lead weights can all be used to stabilize various items.

Remember that picture window? Even if the area around it does not collapse, it or other windows (or a glass sliding door) could end up shattering, becoming a real danger. Changing to tempered or laminated glass is an expensive option, but adding safety film may be more reasonable and just as effective.

Obviously, this is a lot of work, and some of it may not be worthwhile for the benefit, but give thought to what would be valuable. Take a walk through your home, and see which areas would be most dangerous. Pay special attention to the bedroom, because sleep will slow your reaction times, and you probably don’t want anything harder than a plush animal toppling onto your bed. (While you are doing this walk-through, you may want to multi-task, also looking for fire hazards and things you would want to take in an evacuation.)

Preventing confusion

Practice makes perfect, if for no other reason than you can see where things will go wrong. For example, you might go outside to make sure everyone in the family knows how to turn off the gas and discover that your connection does not match the diagram. If you do this before the earthquake, you still have time to call the gas company and get it figured out. How many household members will fit under the one table? Will the dogs fit in the same tent as the humans? Holding drills will ensure that everyone knows the drill.

Part of this is that all household members should know where emergency supplies are, you should choose locations where they will remain easily accessible. While most supplies can be kept in a central location, everyone should have shoes and light sticks near their bed.

Other preparation

Any other preparation you do will only help. It will be great to have water storage, it will be great to have food storage, and it will be great to have 72-hour kits and camping supplies. It will be great to be physically fit and capable of handling stress. Provident living will never hurt you.

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