Earthquakes have been in the news lately, with a recent study predicting that California’s next large quake will occur within thirty years. There are no updates on when the next large Oregon quake will happen, but any time between now and the next few hundred years should be about right. The lack of predictability is may not be comforting, but preparing for disaster can be very comforting, and that is what we are going to do.
Remaining calm, instead of panicking, is a good rule of thumb for any emergency, but is especially important during an earthquake. The time period that is lasts is usually fairly short, and yet what you do during that brief time is very important. Memorizing what you need to do now, so that the actions become automatic, should be your first preparatory step.
Unfortunately, there is a lot of incorrect information out there. Some of it was previously believed to be true, but has since been updated, like that you should take shelter in doorways. This comes from a picture of a demolished adobe home, with only the door frame left standing. Unless you are living in an old-fashioned adobe structure, the doorway is not particularly reinforced, so is not safer. There is such a thing as a strong, load-bearing door frame, but they are less common with the wood frame homes that dominate local housing. Plus there is the added drawback that if there is a door it could swing back and forth and hit you.
Other incorrect information has been spread by email forward. If you have seeing a mailing about the “triangle of life”, encouraging you to crouch next to objects instead of under them, you may notice that the information does not seem logical, and depending on the version that some of the statements are patently false. Please disregard its advice.
You may also have seen a television movie where the earthquake “expert” jumped out of bed and sheltered in a doorway, but if you continued watching you may have started suspecting the accuracy when the earthquake chased and followed a train, was out-ridden by a cyclist (though he died anyway when the Space Needle fell on him), and actually pretty much anything else that happened.
Where can you go for good information? We have a wonderful resource in Oregon Consolidated Emergency Management, and you can also get information from the Red Cross and FEMA. We will link to them at the end of the newsletter, but for now, here are the basics.
Drop, Cover, and Hold
You may hear a noise before you feel the ground shaking. This can give you just enough of an alert to recognize what is happening, and remember what to do.
The best source of cover is a sturdy piece of furniture that you will fit under, like a table or desk. DROP and get below it.
If there is nothing available, get up against an interior wall. If the ceiling caves in, it should be more towards the middle, giving you some space. Look out for things that might collapse or drop on you, like cabinets or vases or picture frames. Chimneys have a high risk of collapsing, so near the fireplace is not ideal. Also, windows can break and send glass flying, so try to avoid windows.
In addition to ideally taking COVER under a table or desk, because of flying glass and debris, you will also want to COVER your eyes and head. Based on your resources, this could involve wrapping a coat around your head, or simply pressing your arm over your eyes as a shield.
If you are under a piece of furniture, HOLD on to it and be prepared to move with it, if necessary, until the ground quits shaking.
These steps may be fairly easy to follow at home or at the office during the day, but you don’t know where you will be, or what you will be doing, so here are a few other possibilities.
In the kitchen: The normal house rules apply, except that there are more hazards here. The refrigerator and stove can shake loose, and overhead cupboards can open and spill their contents. Pick your spot away from these hazards.
In bed: You are probably safest staying there, using the pillow to shelter your head. However, if there is a heavy light fixture overhead, you should consider moving to the nearest safe place. Evaluate your sleeping area before it happens, while you are not groggy.
In a store: The primary danger here is shelves, though there are probably also larger windows. Try and move away from shelves and displays, then drop, cover, and hold.
Theater or stadium: These structures can be a bit more dangerous due to the wider area without the support that would come from interior walls. If you can get down in the row between the seats, do so, but you may have to just stay in the chair and try and protect your head. Normally the rule is not to rush outside after the quake, but there is an exception here. Do wait for the shaking to stop, but then exit in an orderly manner.
Outdoors: It can be great being out in the open, where there are less things to fall, but avoid poles, signs, power lines, and buildings that could fall. If you are near buildings, going into the entrance of one may be safest. The rule is still to protect your head.
Driving: You should pull over and stop as quickly as possible, but do not stop on an overpass or bridge, or under power lines or other hazards. Stay in the car, which should absorb the shocks fairly well and insulate you from electricity in case of downed power lines.
In a wheelchair: Stay in the chair. If there is shelter, move to it, lock your wheels, and shield your head with your arms.
Please note that none of these scenarios mention running out of the building, going into a stairwell, or using elevators during the quake, all of which are really bad ideas.
Now, about that staying calm, remember that the earthquake will probably not last longer than three or four minutes. You may find it helpful to count slowly to fifty. If there are others around, talk to them, letting them know you are scared but that it will end. You may be able to help calm them or even keep them from doing something foolish and getting injured.
In an office environment, it is highly probably that the tremor will trigger alarm and sprinkler systems, which may add to the confusion. This is perfectly normal, and not a sign that things are getting worse.
Here are the links that were mentioned earlier. Stay tuned for future letters where we discuss what to do before and after the quake.
http://www.ocem.org/prepare/families_and_individuals.htm
http://www.redcross.org/services/disaster/0,1082,0_583_,00.html
http://www.fema.gov/hazard/earthquake/index.shtm
http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/triangle.asp
Monday, February 16, 2009
Sunday, February 8, 2009
March 2008 - Continuing Education
Several months ago we surveyed you looking for the general state of preparedness and areas of interest. One unexpected result was that although only 33 of you said that your current employment did not meet your financial and emotional needs, 59 of you wanted more education for your desired personal or professional life. It appears that many of you have interests in education beyond advancing your careers. Because of that, we will focus on education for life enrichment, rather than career advancement, which may become its own topic in the future.
Even if you are not planning on pursuing a degree, you may still be interested in local college classes. Portland Community College is one option, with a wide range of non-credit classes listed under Community Education: http://www.pcc.edu/pcc/pro/comed/
As the courses are not for credit, there are not tests or grades or pressure, so the classes can be an enjoyable way to explore a future hobby or career, without making too big of a commitment. You can learn a foreign language, improve your writing skills, or try out vegetarian cooking.
If you know you have a high level of interest, you may wish to seek out a different source. For example, PCC has kayaking classes, but there are also local businesses that will teach that, with more options for customization. Dance studios have lessons, and then hold dances where you can put it to use. Cooking classes are offered by the Portland Culinary Institute, as an extension of its cooking school, but also by stores like In Good Taste, Whole Foods, and Uwajimaya.
Pretty much any craft store will have either its own classes or information about classes for that type of craft. This applies to large stores like Michaels and Craft Warehouse, as well as specialty store like Sharon’s Attic (for quilts) or Planet Bead (for beading). These classes will often be inexpensive because their main purpose is to encourage product sales, but if you want to participate in the hobby, it can still work for you. It is the same concept as Home Depot’s in-store clinics.
In no case should any of these mentions be taken as endorsements, so there are not many links. Google searches with the city and topic (e.g. “Hillsboro painting classes”) will bring up many options, but for recommendations you will probably want to ask around. The point is to illustrate that if you want to do something and don’t know how, chances are there are multiple options for learning it. It does not even have to cost money. Some time ago we had some ward members swapping singing lessons for cooking lessons. Maybe you can trade your knowledge to someone else.
So far the focus has been more on hobbies. Maybe you simply want to be better-informed. Reading is a wonderful way to do this, and can be completely free if you take advantage of local library services. Having so many different books to choose from can be overwhelming, but joining a book club can help you with selections. You can form a club with friends or participate with Relief Society, and book stores will often have in-store groups and online groups. You can also ask a librarian for recommendations, or combine the two by checking out the Everybody Reads project, where one book is selected each year for an entire city to read. Workshops and speakers are often scheduled to enhance the experience, and you may find strangers all over the city reading the same book: http://www.multcolib.org/books/lists/everybodyreads.html
Book stores will frequently have authors come and do readings or answer questions. These are often printed in the Sunday Oregonian, but you can also check schedules at store sites, like http://www.powells.com/calendar.html.
You can also use local classes to serve others. Master Recyclers and Master Gardeners receive intensive training on their subjects and then volunteer to teach others in the community. The Red Cross will teach your first aid and CPR, and you can take additional training if you would like to volunteer.
http://www.masterrecycler.org/
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/washington/index.php
http://www.redcross-pdx.org/services/Safety_training_home.shtml
However, if you wish to learn, serve others, and increase your own emergency preparedness, you may wish to consider CERT training.
CERT stands for Community Emergency Response Team, and is based on the principle that with an area-wide disaster professional responders will be overwhelmed, so having civilians with basic training and organization can save lives. You will receive training in disaster medicine, light search and rescue, fire suppression, and organization and disaster psychology. Not only is there no charge, but for completing the class you will receive a hard hat, gloves and safety glasses, and a handy multipurpose tool that can dig, pry, and shut off gas and water.
Eligibility is determined by the city boundaries and school districts of where you live and work, so if you live in Beaverton but work in Hillsboro, you are eligible for either program. Forest Grove and its surroundings go with Hillsboro. For other areas, please ask.
http://www.hillsborocert.org/
http://www.beavertonoregon.gov/departments/emergency/cert/
Unfortunately both cities have just started new classes, but Hillsboro has only had the first session, you could probably still get in if you hurry. It’s a great way to be ready to help.
Volunteering is also a great way to make connections if you are considering going back to school. You can get a feel for something, along with experience, before committing to a full academic program. To search by area of interest and location, try http://www.volunteermatch.org/. Then, when you are ready to go back to school, see http://www.fafsa.ed.gov/. Prospects for aid improve after you turn 23.
All you have to do is decide on an interest. Once that has been done the options are endless.
Even if you are not planning on pursuing a degree, you may still be interested in local college classes. Portland Community College is one option, with a wide range of non-credit classes listed under Community Education: http://www.pcc.edu/pcc/pro/comed/
As the courses are not for credit, there are not tests or grades or pressure, so the classes can be an enjoyable way to explore a future hobby or career, without making too big of a commitment. You can learn a foreign language, improve your writing skills, or try out vegetarian cooking.
If you know you have a high level of interest, you may wish to seek out a different source. For example, PCC has kayaking classes, but there are also local businesses that will teach that, with more options for customization. Dance studios have lessons, and then hold dances where you can put it to use. Cooking classes are offered by the Portland Culinary Institute, as an extension of its cooking school, but also by stores like In Good Taste, Whole Foods, and Uwajimaya.
Pretty much any craft store will have either its own classes or information about classes for that type of craft. This applies to large stores like Michaels and Craft Warehouse, as well as specialty store like Sharon’s Attic (for quilts) or Planet Bead (for beading). These classes will often be inexpensive because their main purpose is to encourage product sales, but if you want to participate in the hobby, it can still work for you. It is the same concept as Home Depot’s in-store clinics.
In no case should any of these mentions be taken as endorsements, so there are not many links. Google searches with the city and topic (e.g. “Hillsboro painting classes”) will bring up many options, but for recommendations you will probably want to ask around. The point is to illustrate that if you want to do something and don’t know how, chances are there are multiple options for learning it. It does not even have to cost money. Some time ago we had some ward members swapping singing lessons for cooking lessons. Maybe you can trade your knowledge to someone else.
So far the focus has been more on hobbies. Maybe you simply want to be better-informed. Reading is a wonderful way to do this, and can be completely free if you take advantage of local library services. Having so many different books to choose from can be overwhelming, but joining a book club can help you with selections. You can form a club with friends or participate with Relief Society, and book stores will often have in-store groups and online groups. You can also ask a librarian for recommendations, or combine the two by checking out the Everybody Reads project, where one book is selected each year for an entire city to read. Workshops and speakers are often scheduled to enhance the experience, and you may find strangers all over the city reading the same book: http://www.multcolib.org/books/lists/everybodyreads.html
Book stores will frequently have authors come and do readings or answer questions. These are often printed in the Sunday Oregonian, but you can also check schedules at store sites, like http://www.powells.com/calendar.html.
You can also use local classes to serve others. Master Recyclers and Master Gardeners receive intensive training on their subjects and then volunteer to teach others in the community. The Red Cross will teach your first aid and CPR, and you can take additional training if you would like to volunteer.
http://www.masterrecycler.org/
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/washington/index.php
http://www.redcross-pdx.org/services/Safety_training_home.shtml
However, if you wish to learn, serve others, and increase your own emergency preparedness, you may wish to consider CERT training.
CERT stands for Community Emergency Response Team, and is based on the principle that with an area-wide disaster professional responders will be overwhelmed, so having civilians with basic training and organization can save lives. You will receive training in disaster medicine, light search and rescue, fire suppression, and organization and disaster psychology. Not only is there no charge, but for completing the class you will receive a hard hat, gloves and safety glasses, and a handy multipurpose tool that can dig, pry, and shut off gas and water.
Eligibility is determined by the city boundaries and school districts of where you live and work, so if you live in Beaverton but work in Hillsboro, you are eligible for either program. Forest Grove and its surroundings go with Hillsboro. For other areas, please ask.
http://www.hillsborocert.org/
http://www.beavertonoregon.gov/departments/emergency/cert/
Unfortunately both cities have just started new classes, but Hillsboro has only had the first session, you could probably still get in if you hurry. It’s a great way to be ready to help.
Volunteering is also a great way to make connections if you are considering going back to school. You can get a feel for something, along with experience, before committing to a full academic program. To search by area of interest and location, try http://www.volunteermatch.org/. Then, when you are ready to go back to school, see http://www.fafsa.ed.gov/. Prospects for aid improve after you turn 23.
All you have to do is decide on an interest. Once that has been done the options are endless.
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
February 2008 - Fire Safety
As we consider possible natural disasters, it can be disconcerting how little control one has over what will happen, and how little advance notice there generally is. All one can do is prepare to mitigate the circumstances, which can still be worth a lot. One the other hand, house fires are almost completely preventable, so it makes sense to ensure that this area is under control.
I recently had CERT fire suppression training from a local fireman. I asked him what were the most common causes of house fires on the calls he took. After asking if “people” counted as the answer, he confirmed that the most common cause was kitchen fires, especially from people leaving things unattended on the stove, even if only for a minute. Our first safety tip is to never leave food you are cooking unattended, especially if it involves grease.
Simple adherence to the Word of Wisdom makes it unlikely that you will leave a burning cigarette unattended, but if you have a fondness for candles, they can be another potential hazard. Treat your burning vanilla candle like a pan of bacon frying, and do not leave it unattended.
Remember, fire is a chemical reaction involving fuel, heat, and oxygen. As you go through your house identifying hazards, you should be primarily looking for sources of fuel and heat, as you will not want to eliminate the oxygen. In the main living areas of your home, the primary fuel sources would be large stacks of papers. Garages and sheds tend to be more dangerous, as there could be greasy rags, gasoline for lawnmowers, fertilizer, or other chemicals.
Obviously, you may need many of these items, and not want to get rid of them, but you can follow the L.I.E.S. principle:
Limit the amount of hazardous materials you buy and store. The fifty pound bag of fertilizer may be a better value, but if you are only going to need two pounds for the year, that is what you should buy.
Isolate the materials by keeping them separate from sources of heat, in a locked cabinet when possible.
Eliminate the materials that you no longer need. Metro Recycling frequently has hazardous waste roundups where you can drop off the items free of charge. For more information, call 503-234-3000.
Separate items that will react together. This seems to contradict the Isolate step, but if you are storing oxidizers with flammables, or bleach with ammonia, you are creating a new hazard. Perhaps you will need two locked cabinets.
Of course, even rugs and furniture can burn, so you will want to check for sources of sparks or heat also. We have covered potential open flames like candles or grease fires, but if you have natural gas appliances there will be pilot lights. New building codes require that gas heaters in garages be raised so that the gas fumes from the car (which are heavy, and sink to the ground) cannot reach the pilot light and react. If you have an older home, you may need to get this done.
If you have a fireplace or wood stove, ashes may look dead but contain live embers that work their way to the outside as much as three days later. When cleaning out these ashes they should always be put in a metal container (never paper or plastic) and stored at least three feet away from the house.
Electrical cords and appliances, especially those that produce heat, are also something to watch for. When checking your home, look for any cords that are frayed or show signs of damage, but also look for ones that are bent at angles or have objects over them (wrapped around a nail, under a rolling chair, etc.). There is a high probability of damage, even if none is showing.
Do not overload outlets, which includes using multiple power strips together. When appliances are not in use, unplug them. Even when off, they will continue to draw power while plugged in. This can also be beneficial to your electrical bill.
Remember, the ones that produce heat are the most dangerous. This is partly because they draw more power, but also because of the heat they produce. So space heaters should be kept away from walls, and not left unattended. Dryers should be kept clean, having their hoses vacuumed out about every two years, and the lint traps cleaned out daily, if not after every load. Dryer sheets can create a waxy buildup on the trap that may not be visible, so it can be useful to periodically run the trap under the faucet and make sure water goes through. If it does not, clean with a toothbrush to clear out. Dry the trap well before returning to the dryer.
It is very unlikely, but not impossible, for spontaneous combustion to occur in a closed dryer with some moisture left, so when the load is done, open the dryer door, even if you are not yet ready to remove the load.
What if despite all your best efforts, fire breaks out? If it is a grease fire originating from you cooking, immediately place a lid over the pan to take away the oxygen. Turn off the heat unless the flames prevent you from doing so safely. There is a British PSA making the rounds on the internet saying to wet a rag and place it over pan. Do not do this! While the ad is correct that you should not throw water on the fire, the wet rag is much more dangerous than a lid.
You can also throw baking soda on the fire, which will suffocate the flames, but not all white powders are created equal, and flour can explode. The pan lid is really best.
Fire extinguishers are also really good, and surprisingly effective. Look for one that can be used on both grease and electrical fires.
If you have an electrical fire, again, do not throw water on it, since water conducts electricity. Unplugging the item would make water safe, but unplugging it might get you shocked as well, so it would be better to have someone go to the fuse box and cut power that way.
If the fire is too big to fight, get low where the air is cooler and cleaner, and leave the house. You and your family or roommates should have a prearranged meeting place so you can easily tell if there is anyone still in the home. Along with setting the place, plan so that you also know the exits, and how easy it is to get out a window if necessary. One good drill is to blindfold yourself and see if you can crawl from the bedroom to the door—how well would you know your way if smoke obscured your vision? Touch doors with the back of your hand, and if you feel heat go the other way.
Obviously, you should have working smoke detectors that you can hear.
If you suspect a gas leak at all, do not turn on any lights, or flashlights, or even a cell phone, as the spark could ignite an explosion. Just get out first, and then call for help.
Also, you know this from school, but if you catch fire, stop, drop, and roll. You don’t need to be scared if you can stay smart.
I recently had CERT fire suppression training from a local fireman. I asked him what were the most common causes of house fires on the calls he took. After asking if “people” counted as the answer, he confirmed that the most common cause was kitchen fires, especially from people leaving things unattended on the stove, even if only for a minute. Our first safety tip is to never leave food you are cooking unattended, especially if it involves grease.
Simple adherence to the Word of Wisdom makes it unlikely that you will leave a burning cigarette unattended, but if you have a fondness for candles, they can be another potential hazard. Treat your burning vanilla candle like a pan of bacon frying, and do not leave it unattended.
Remember, fire is a chemical reaction involving fuel, heat, and oxygen. As you go through your house identifying hazards, you should be primarily looking for sources of fuel and heat, as you will not want to eliminate the oxygen. In the main living areas of your home, the primary fuel sources would be large stacks of papers. Garages and sheds tend to be more dangerous, as there could be greasy rags, gasoline for lawnmowers, fertilizer, or other chemicals.
Obviously, you may need many of these items, and not want to get rid of them, but you can follow the L.I.E.S. principle:
Limit the amount of hazardous materials you buy and store. The fifty pound bag of fertilizer may be a better value, but if you are only going to need two pounds for the year, that is what you should buy.
Isolate the materials by keeping them separate from sources of heat, in a locked cabinet when possible.
Eliminate the materials that you no longer need. Metro Recycling frequently has hazardous waste roundups where you can drop off the items free of charge. For more information, call 503-234-3000.
Separate items that will react together. This seems to contradict the Isolate step, but if you are storing oxidizers with flammables, or bleach with ammonia, you are creating a new hazard. Perhaps you will need two locked cabinets.
Of course, even rugs and furniture can burn, so you will want to check for sources of sparks or heat also. We have covered potential open flames like candles or grease fires, but if you have natural gas appliances there will be pilot lights. New building codes require that gas heaters in garages be raised so that the gas fumes from the car (which are heavy, and sink to the ground) cannot reach the pilot light and react. If you have an older home, you may need to get this done.
If you have a fireplace or wood stove, ashes may look dead but contain live embers that work their way to the outside as much as three days later. When cleaning out these ashes they should always be put in a metal container (never paper or plastic) and stored at least three feet away from the house.
Electrical cords and appliances, especially those that produce heat, are also something to watch for. When checking your home, look for any cords that are frayed or show signs of damage, but also look for ones that are bent at angles or have objects over them (wrapped around a nail, under a rolling chair, etc.). There is a high probability of damage, even if none is showing.
Do not overload outlets, which includes using multiple power strips together. When appliances are not in use, unplug them. Even when off, they will continue to draw power while plugged in. This can also be beneficial to your electrical bill.
Remember, the ones that produce heat are the most dangerous. This is partly because they draw more power, but also because of the heat they produce. So space heaters should be kept away from walls, and not left unattended. Dryers should be kept clean, having their hoses vacuumed out about every two years, and the lint traps cleaned out daily, if not after every load. Dryer sheets can create a waxy buildup on the trap that may not be visible, so it can be useful to periodically run the trap under the faucet and make sure water goes through. If it does not, clean with a toothbrush to clear out. Dry the trap well before returning to the dryer.
It is very unlikely, but not impossible, for spontaneous combustion to occur in a closed dryer with some moisture left, so when the load is done, open the dryer door, even if you are not yet ready to remove the load.
What if despite all your best efforts, fire breaks out? If it is a grease fire originating from you cooking, immediately place a lid over the pan to take away the oxygen. Turn off the heat unless the flames prevent you from doing so safely. There is a British PSA making the rounds on the internet saying to wet a rag and place it over pan. Do not do this! While the ad is correct that you should not throw water on the fire, the wet rag is much more dangerous than a lid.
You can also throw baking soda on the fire, which will suffocate the flames, but not all white powders are created equal, and flour can explode. The pan lid is really best.
Fire extinguishers are also really good, and surprisingly effective. Look for one that can be used on both grease and electrical fires.
If you have an electrical fire, again, do not throw water on it, since water conducts electricity. Unplugging the item would make water safe, but unplugging it might get you shocked as well, so it would be better to have someone go to the fuse box and cut power that way.
If the fire is too big to fight, get low where the air is cooler and cleaner, and leave the house. You and your family or roommates should have a prearranged meeting place so you can easily tell if there is anyone still in the home. Along with setting the place, plan so that you also know the exits, and how easy it is to get out a window if necessary. One good drill is to blindfold yourself and see if you can crawl from the bedroom to the door—how well would you know your way if smoke obscured your vision? Touch doors with the back of your hand, and if you feel heat go the other way.
Obviously, you should have working smoke detectors that you can hear.
If you suspect a gas leak at all, do not turn on any lights, or flashlights, or even a cell phone, as the spark could ignite an explosion. Just get out first, and then call for help.
Also, you know this from school, but if you catch fire, stop, drop, and roll. You don’t need to be scared if you can stay smart.
Monday, January 26, 2009
January 2008 - Personal Emergency Plans
We recently had to update our emergency plan at work, and found that we did not need to go over every possible emergency, but could simply go over possible results. It was enough to have a plan for the network being down or staff being unavailable, regardless of whether it was due to earthquake or pandemic flu.
This type of thinking may simplify your own emergency planning as well, but there are still more needs to consider as an individual. We did not need to worry about food or water, or getting home when the roads were disrupted.
It does not hurt to think about what sort of issues are likely to occur. This area is at a strong risk of earthquake, despite not having them very often. We do see ice and wind storms yearly, and have recently had examples of flooding. Most of us are not likely to be directly affected by forest fires, but a house fire can happen to anyone. Other things can happen, but this is a good starting point.
To make an emergency plan, you essentially need to think about possible problems that can occur, and what your needs would be. The plans that you make may require additional preparation.
For example, one likely result of a windstorm is a temporary loss of electricity. Look at how you get your heat. If it is electric, or the controls are electric, you may not have heat coming in, so you should have extra blankets. A fireplace may provide an alternative heating method, but only if you have wood.
If the power outage lasts, you will want to leave the refrigerator and freezer closed to keep items cool, and you will not have access to the microwave, toaster, or an electric stove. Do you have food that does not require cooking, or an alternative means of cooking? Please remember that most camping cooking equipment is not safe for indoor use, and this includes the garage, even with the door open. Since there is probably unpleasant weather, and you probably don’t have a wood stove, it may be wise to have some foods on hand that are non-perishable and require no cooking.
A power outage will probably not affect your water supply, but it could if there is an electric pump, or if cold temperatures result in the pipes freezing. Pipes can be insulated in advance, but there are completely different circumstances where it would be beneficial to have water storage, so have that anyway.
You will want to be able to see, so you should have flashlights with working batteries, or glow sticks. Candles and kerosene lanterns are generally not recommended due to the risk of fire.
You may have noticed that many of the items you need are likely to be found in a 72-hour kit. Having a kit is a great starting point. Having a plan takes things further. In addition to supplies, you have also considered different scenarios and thought about possible actions.
We have walked through steps you might take to prepare for a windstorm if you were at home, but imagine it happened when you were at work and left a tree across the road you take home. It will be cleared away eventually, but do you have an alternate route you can take? If there are situations where getting home is not possible, do you have an alternative place to stay? Thinking about these options ahead of time will make things much easier. If you keep an emergency kit in your car, you can even include a change of clothes.
What if you were home but had to leave? Depending on the amount of notice you had, and what was likely to happen, there might be items you would want to pack. Instead of trying to think about it then, when time is short, consider it now. Which items would you grab if you had five minutes? If you have important papers, can they be located quickly? With more time, you could take more items, or perhaps some items would need to be left but could be moved or cushioned to improve their chances of being recovered later. Look around your home and figure out those options.
While you are looking around, also check for exits in case of fire, and sheltered spots in case of earthquake. Perhaps some areas could be made safer by bolting large furnishings to the wall or fastening wall hangings more securely.
Now look at the utilities. For water, electricity, and gas, do you know how to shut them off, and under what circumstances to do so? This is probably a good point to also make sure that smoke detectors are functional, and to consider a carbon monoxide detector.
For peace of mind you will want to be able to communicate with roommates and family members. Under some circumstances you may be able to make long-distance calls but not reach people locally, so it is wise to have a common out-of-state contact who can take reports. Wallet size cards are available where phone numbers can be listed, along with medical, insurance, and utility information.
This may seem overwhelming, but the point of all emergency preparedness is that a little productive worrying now can prevent much worse anxiety later. Also, you are not alone. There is a lot of information from federal and local government sources, as well as the Red Cross.
http://www.redcross-pdx.org/prepareforlife/makeaplan/disasterplanning.shtml
http://www.ready.gov/america/makeaplan/
http://www.hillsborocert.org/flyerList.htm
One of the Hillsboro CERT flyers is a calendar with a few steps you can take to prepare each month. Taking a few steps here and there, allowing inspiration to guide you, should keep your preparations possible, and even probable.
This type of thinking may simplify your own emergency planning as well, but there are still more needs to consider as an individual. We did not need to worry about food or water, or getting home when the roads were disrupted.
It does not hurt to think about what sort of issues are likely to occur. This area is at a strong risk of earthquake, despite not having them very often. We do see ice and wind storms yearly, and have recently had examples of flooding. Most of us are not likely to be directly affected by forest fires, but a house fire can happen to anyone. Other things can happen, but this is a good starting point.
To make an emergency plan, you essentially need to think about possible problems that can occur, and what your needs would be. The plans that you make may require additional preparation.
For example, one likely result of a windstorm is a temporary loss of electricity. Look at how you get your heat. If it is electric, or the controls are electric, you may not have heat coming in, so you should have extra blankets. A fireplace may provide an alternative heating method, but only if you have wood.
If the power outage lasts, you will want to leave the refrigerator and freezer closed to keep items cool, and you will not have access to the microwave, toaster, or an electric stove. Do you have food that does not require cooking, or an alternative means of cooking? Please remember that most camping cooking equipment is not safe for indoor use, and this includes the garage, even with the door open. Since there is probably unpleasant weather, and you probably don’t have a wood stove, it may be wise to have some foods on hand that are non-perishable and require no cooking.
A power outage will probably not affect your water supply, but it could if there is an electric pump, or if cold temperatures result in the pipes freezing. Pipes can be insulated in advance, but there are completely different circumstances where it would be beneficial to have water storage, so have that anyway.
You will want to be able to see, so you should have flashlights with working batteries, or glow sticks. Candles and kerosene lanterns are generally not recommended due to the risk of fire.
You may have noticed that many of the items you need are likely to be found in a 72-hour kit. Having a kit is a great starting point. Having a plan takes things further. In addition to supplies, you have also considered different scenarios and thought about possible actions.
We have walked through steps you might take to prepare for a windstorm if you were at home, but imagine it happened when you were at work and left a tree across the road you take home. It will be cleared away eventually, but do you have an alternate route you can take? If there are situations where getting home is not possible, do you have an alternative place to stay? Thinking about these options ahead of time will make things much easier. If you keep an emergency kit in your car, you can even include a change of clothes.
What if you were home but had to leave? Depending on the amount of notice you had, and what was likely to happen, there might be items you would want to pack. Instead of trying to think about it then, when time is short, consider it now. Which items would you grab if you had five minutes? If you have important papers, can they be located quickly? With more time, you could take more items, or perhaps some items would need to be left but could be moved or cushioned to improve their chances of being recovered later. Look around your home and figure out those options.
While you are looking around, also check for exits in case of fire, and sheltered spots in case of earthquake. Perhaps some areas could be made safer by bolting large furnishings to the wall or fastening wall hangings more securely.
Now look at the utilities. For water, electricity, and gas, do you know how to shut them off, and under what circumstances to do so? This is probably a good point to also make sure that smoke detectors are functional, and to consider a carbon monoxide detector.
For peace of mind you will want to be able to communicate with roommates and family members. Under some circumstances you may be able to make long-distance calls but not reach people locally, so it is wise to have a common out-of-state contact who can take reports. Wallet size cards are available where phone numbers can be listed, along with medical, insurance, and utility information.
This may seem overwhelming, but the point of all emergency preparedness is that a little productive worrying now can prevent much worse anxiety later. Also, you are not alone. There is a lot of information from federal and local government sources, as well as the Red Cross.
http://www.redcross-pdx.org/prepareforlife/makeaplan/disasterplanning.shtml
http://www.ready.gov/america/makeaplan/
http://www.hillsborocert.org/flyerList.htm
One of the Hillsboro CERT flyers is a calendar with a few steps you can take to prepare each month. Taking a few steps here and there, allowing inspiration to guide you, should keep your preparations possible, and even probable.
Thursday, January 22, 2009
December 2007 - Scriptural Literacy
Looking at the principles of provident living as a whole, it goes beyond physical preparation for an emergency, into making us ready in every way for hard times. Not only are there financial savings and food storage in the event of a job loss, but there is also an adaptability to help in finding a new job. We maintain physical health so we can survive physical hardships and emotional health for emotional hardships. This is why one key component of Education and Literacy is Spirituality and Learning. As we study the scriptures, we become better able to discern the influences around us, wiser in choosing our response, and build up a reserve of spiritual power.
Unfortunately, our early efforts at scripture study may not initially seem rewarding. The scriptural language may be difficult, some events may not seem easily relatable, and we can easily read many passages and come away with no thought more profound than “huh?”.
It is important to remember that many of the benefits come with persistence. There was a memory study done using pieces on a chessboard, testing players at the novice, intermediate, and master level. When the pieces were randomly arranged, all subjects remembered the board configuration at about the same level of accuracy. However, when games were started and stopped in the middle, the masters had a much better ability to recreate the location of the pieces. Their familiarity with the game allowed them to see patterns and connections, and as that meaning gave them better understanding, it fit more easily into their mind.
The same thing happens with scripture study. On your first time through the Book of Mormon, you will pick up some things. On your second time through, you may be able to recognize some patterns, or gain more meaning from some sections because you remember what is coming afterwards and now you can see how it gets there. This will just keep growing as you get through your twentieth time, and your fiftieth time, and also as you read the other standard works. Your understanding and familiarity grows, and so not only do you get more out of your personal study, but things can also be brought to mind when they apply to your life.
This is a lifelong process, and while there will still be much to treasure during the early times, there will probably also be periods of tedium, confusion, and stagnation. Here are a few tips that may be useful as you build up your scriptural knowledge:
Bringing in the Spirit
Studying the scriptures themselves can bring the Spirit, but if you feel you need extra help, it may be wise to start your sessions with prayer, and make that request. You may also find it helpful to start with music. Not only can listening to a hymn soften your heart and open your mind, but we also have a handy reference guide starting on page 410 of they hymnal. Perhaps you are just starting the Doctrine and Covenants. For Section 1 you might want to look up numbers 22 and 271. There is not a recommendation for every section and chapter, but there is still a lot to work with.
Getting additional help
There are study aids everywhere. In addition to Institute classes and manuals, there are books and Ensign articles that can increase your context. For example, if you are starting the Old Testament, the 1990 Ensign has articles on where the books fit in, the Abrahamic covenant, the Exodus, Deuteronomy, Saul, Ezekiel, and many others. You should never let the commentaries replace the scriptures, but they can enhance your study. All of these articles are easily accessible online, along with the Sunday School manuals, at www.lds.org.
Speaking of the Sunday School manuals, keeping up with the lessons will take you through all the scriptures every four years, and allow for better class participation, which will make the teachers very happy. In addition, listen to other people’s talks and comments. I had read over 1 Nephi 21:16 many times, but it never jumped out at me until an elder in my MTC class used it during Book of Mormon sharing.
Applying them more to your life
You may wish to consider following scripture study with journal writing. As you focus your thoughts you may be surprised at where they lead you. Also, you can pray specifically for this insight.
Freeing your mind of context
While understanding historical context and the meaning other people have derived can really help, it can also help to forget those things. There was a lot of dualism used in prophetic writings, where a passage could refer to either the first or second overthrow of Jerusalem or the Second Coming. In addition, words are often translated differently. In Isaiah 52:15, the word we have as sprinkle in the King James Version in other languages ends up as purify, scatter, startle, be astonished, and recoil, and any of them can be true. If the Spirit tells you one meaning, and it is different from what it meant to the ancient Israelites, or different from what it meant to you three years ago, that’s great. Inspiration makes the scriptures live no matter how ancient their origin.
Breaking the monotony
If you have read through a few times, and you feel stagnant, look for a new approach. You could…
· Go through in chronological order, either with just one book or all four.
· Go through searching for a specific topic, like prophecies already fulfilled and not yet fulfilled, spiritual gifts, or symbols of the Savior.
· Research various issues that apply to you using the Topical Guide.
· Break up harder sections. While one psalm is beautiful, I find that many in a row begin to cloy, so I spread out my reading of them over the rest of the Old Testament, and did something similar with the Pauline Epistles.
A full knowledge of the scriptures requires patience and persistence, but there will be constant rewards along the way. As you grow in understanding of the Gospel, with increased faith and a sure knowledge of the Atonement and all that implies, you will have peace in your heart, even during temporary storms.
Unfortunately, our early efforts at scripture study may not initially seem rewarding. The scriptural language may be difficult, some events may not seem easily relatable, and we can easily read many passages and come away with no thought more profound than “huh?”.
It is important to remember that many of the benefits come with persistence. There was a memory study done using pieces on a chessboard, testing players at the novice, intermediate, and master level. When the pieces were randomly arranged, all subjects remembered the board configuration at about the same level of accuracy. However, when games were started and stopped in the middle, the masters had a much better ability to recreate the location of the pieces. Their familiarity with the game allowed them to see patterns and connections, and as that meaning gave them better understanding, it fit more easily into their mind.
The same thing happens with scripture study. On your first time through the Book of Mormon, you will pick up some things. On your second time through, you may be able to recognize some patterns, or gain more meaning from some sections because you remember what is coming afterwards and now you can see how it gets there. This will just keep growing as you get through your twentieth time, and your fiftieth time, and also as you read the other standard works. Your understanding and familiarity grows, and so not only do you get more out of your personal study, but things can also be brought to mind when they apply to your life.
This is a lifelong process, and while there will still be much to treasure during the early times, there will probably also be periods of tedium, confusion, and stagnation. Here are a few tips that may be useful as you build up your scriptural knowledge:
Bringing in the Spirit
Studying the scriptures themselves can bring the Spirit, but if you feel you need extra help, it may be wise to start your sessions with prayer, and make that request. You may also find it helpful to start with music. Not only can listening to a hymn soften your heart and open your mind, but we also have a handy reference guide starting on page 410 of they hymnal. Perhaps you are just starting the Doctrine and Covenants. For Section 1 you might want to look up numbers 22 and 271. There is not a recommendation for every section and chapter, but there is still a lot to work with.
Getting additional help
There are study aids everywhere. In addition to Institute classes and manuals, there are books and Ensign articles that can increase your context. For example, if you are starting the Old Testament, the 1990 Ensign has articles on where the books fit in, the Abrahamic covenant, the Exodus, Deuteronomy, Saul, Ezekiel, and many others. You should never let the commentaries replace the scriptures, but they can enhance your study. All of these articles are easily accessible online, along with the Sunday School manuals, at www.lds.org.
Speaking of the Sunday School manuals, keeping up with the lessons will take you through all the scriptures every four years, and allow for better class participation, which will make the teachers very happy. In addition, listen to other people’s talks and comments. I had read over 1 Nephi 21:16 many times, but it never jumped out at me until an elder in my MTC class used it during Book of Mormon sharing.
Applying them more to your life
You may wish to consider following scripture study with journal writing. As you focus your thoughts you may be surprised at where they lead you. Also, you can pray specifically for this insight.
Freeing your mind of context
While understanding historical context and the meaning other people have derived can really help, it can also help to forget those things. There was a lot of dualism used in prophetic writings, where a passage could refer to either the first or second overthrow of Jerusalem or the Second Coming. In addition, words are often translated differently. In Isaiah 52:15, the word we have as sprinkle in the King James Version in other languages ends up as purify, scatter, startle, be astonished, and recoil, and any of them can be true. If the Spirit tells you one meaning, and it is different from what it meant to the ancient Israelites, or different from what it meant to you three years ago, that’s great. Inspiration makes the scriptures live no matter how ancient their origin.
Breaking the monotony
If you have read through a few times, and you feel stagnant, look for a new approach. You could…
· Go through in chronological order, either with just one book or all four.
· Go through searching for a specific topic, like prophecies already fulfilled and not yet fulfilled, spiritual gifts, or symbols of the Savior.
· Research various issues that apply to you using the Topical Guide.
· Break up harder sections. While one psalm is beautiful, I find that many in a row begin to cloy, so I spread out my reading of them over the rest of the Old Testament, and did something similar with the Pauline Epistles.
A full knowledge of the scriptures requires patience and persistence, but there will be constant rewards along the way. As you grow in understanding of the Gospel, with increased faith and a sure knowledge of the Atonement and all that implies, you will have peace in your heart, even during temporary storms.
Monday, January 12, 2009
November 2007 - Water Storage
After surveying the ward, we know that many of you have 72-hour kits and different types of emergency equipment. A smaller number of you have varying amounts of food storage, but only a handful of you have water storage.
This is not surprising. Church materials stress food storage, and government materials stress 72-hour kits and emergency plans, all of which are valuable. However, water is just as essential for survival as food, a lack of water becomes fatal sooner than a lack of food, and it is easier to take for granted. Every food item in your house was placed there by someone, whereas with water we become used to having clear safe water coming out of the tap on demand.
Water service can be disrupted by earthquake, severe freeze, flooding, or other acts that can lead to contamination or pipe damage. We could go for a long time without any of those events occurring in a manner severe enough to affect the supply, but being prepared means that you do not have to be caught off guard by the unpredictable.
As you may remember, the guidelines for food storage have changed from an emphasis on a one-year supply to three months, but there is still a subtext that more is better. The guidelines for water storage have been reduced as well. From the standard recommendation being a two-week supply, most sources now recommend three days.
The original justification for the two week recommendation was that if the water supply was disrupted, it could take up to two weeks to repair. It is possible that repair methods have improved, and it can be done more speedily, but it is also likely that people get so intimidated by the prospect of acquiring a two-week supply that they do nothing at all, and so reducing that amount makes it something that people can and will do.
As always, any steps for personal preparedness should be done in wisdom and order, remembering that we can receive inspiration for our individual needs.
Regardless of how many days and how many people you are supplying, the general rule is one gallon per person per day. This is assuming that a half gallon will be consumed and the rest will be for washing. That being said, you must drink enough to meet your thirst. Having saved water for tomorrow does not benefit you if you are dehydrated today.
Storage containers should be food grade, with the preferred material being polyethylene terephthalate. Also known as PETE, this plastic is number 1 in the recycling logo, and is the same material that 2 liter pop bottles are made from.
These bottles are excellent water storage containers, and easy to come by. One thing that may be confusing is that when you purchase water it frequently comes in the number 2 HDPE (high density polyethlylene) containers, but this material is not adapted for long term storage, being too easily subject to contamination and leaks. Fortunately, most of us locally have access to excellent water from the tap, so buying water is not necessary.
If I were a young single adult storing water just for myself, I would gradually collect six 2 liter pop bottles. Emergency supply sites do sell 5 gallon jugs, and that would meet my needs as well, but the pop bottles would be cheap and easy.
As I collected each one, I would sanitize it by adding two teaspoons of liquid household chlorine bleach and filling with water, letting it sit and then rinsing it well. I would then fill the jug with water, and mark the date. Many sources recommend rotating the water every six months. You should not need to sanitize the bottle again, but it is a good chance to check for leaks and odors. When I had collected the six bottles, that would be about three gallons, and it would be a really good start.
Knowing that my needs could eventually be more, I would probably also make sure that I had a few ice cube trays in the freezer that I kept full, and I could also make sure that my water heater was kept cleaned and flushed, because there is another 30-60 gallons in there (check instructions specific to your heater). I would not get excited about a water bed or swimming pool, because the chemicals used in them make the water unsafe for drinking. However, if my food storage contained canned fruits and vegetables and soups, the liquid in them could stretch out my hydration, so that would be a good investment.
Although I would mentally know that you can use the water in the toilet tank (not the bowl), I would probably not be able to bring myself to do it. However, when looking at camping supplies I might pick up some water purification tablets in case I needed to collect water at some point and was not sure about its purity, or I might check my old scout or girls camp manual for more on water gathering and purification as well.
All of these are small, simple steps that should be doable without a great investment of time or money, and they can make a huge difference under the right circumstances.
If your household consists of four adults and four animals, it does become more complicated, but can still be broken down into small, manageable steps. Incidentally, when storing for a pet the amount should equal about 2 ½ times their daily food intake. So, if Rover eats two cups of food a day, he will probably need at least five cups of water a day.
Here are some other sources:
http://www.providentliving.org/content/display/0,11666,7534-1-4065-1,00.html
http://www.ocem.org/pdf_resources/17-Food_Water.pdf
http://www.redcross.org/services/prepare/0,1082,0_91_,00.html#water
http://www.fema.gov/plan/prepare/watermanage.shtm
This is not surprising. Church materials stress food storage, and government materials stress 72-hour kits and emergency plans, all of which are valuable. However, water is just as essential for survival as food, a lack of water becomes fatal sooner than a lack of food, and it is easier to take for granted. Every food item in your house was placed there by someone, whereas with water we become used to having clear safe water coming out of the tap on demand.
Water service can be disrupted by earthquake, severe freeze, flooding, or other acts that can lead to contamination or pipe damage. We could go for a long time without any of those events occurring in a manner severe enough to affect the supply, but being prepared means that you do not have to be caught off guard by the unpredictable.
As you may remember, the guidelines for food storage have changed from an emphasis on a one-year supply to three months, but there is still a subtext that more is better. The guidelines for water storage have been reduced as well. From the standard recommendation being a two-week supply, most sources now recommend three days.
The original justification for the two week recommendation was that if the water supply was disrupted, it could take up to two weeks to repair. It is possible that repair methods have improved, and it can be done more speedily, but it is also likely that people get so intimidated by the prospect of acquiring a two-week supply that they do nothing at all, and so reducing that amount makes it something that people can and will do.
As always, any steps for personal preparedness should be done in wisdom and order, remembering that we can receive inspiration for our individual needs.
Regardless of how many days and how many people you are supplying, the general rule is one gallon per person per day. This is assuming that a half gallon will be consumed and the rest will be for washing. That being said, you must drink enough to meet your thirst. Having saved water for tomorrow does not benefit you if you are dehydrated today.
Storage containers should be food grade, with the preferred material being polyethylene terephthalate. Also known as PETE, this plastic is number 1 in the recycling logo, and is the same material that 2 liter pop bottles are made from.
These bottles are excellent water storage containers, and easy to come by. One thing that may be confusing is that when you purchase water it frequently comes in the number 2 HDPE (high density polyethlylene) containers, but this material is not adapted for long term storage, being too easily subject to contamination and leaks. Fortunately, most of us locally have access to excellent water from the tap, so buying water is not necessary.
If I were a young single adult storing water just for myself, I would gradually collect six 2 liter pop bottles. Emergency supply sites do sell 5 gallon jugs, and that would meet my needs as well, but the pop bottles would be cheap and easy.
As I collected each one, I would sanitize it by adding two teaspoons of liquid household chlorine bleach and filling with water, letting it sit and then rinsing it well. I would then fill the jug with water, and mark the date. Many sources recommend rotating the water every six months. You should not need to sanitize the bottle again, but it is a good chance to check for leaks and odors. When I had collected the six bottles, that would be about three gallons, and it would be a really good start.
Knowing that my needs could eventually be more, I would probably also make sure that I had a few ice cube trays in the freezer that I kept full, and I could also make sure that my water heater was kept cleaned and flushed, because there is another 30-60 gallons in there (check instructions specific to your heater). I would not get excited about a water bed or swimming pool, because the chemicals used in them make the water unsafe for drinking. However, if my food storage contained canned fruits and vegetables and soups, the liquid in them could stretch out my hydration, so that would be a good investment.
Although I would mentally know that you can use the water in the toilet tank (not the bowl), I would probably not be able to bring myself to do it. However, when looking at camping supplies I might pick up some water purification tablets in case I needed to collect water at some point and was not sure about its purity, or I might check my old scout or girls camp manual for more on water gathering and purification as well.
All of these are small, simple steps that should be doable without a great investment of time or money, and they can make a huge difference under the right circumstances.
If your household consists of four adults and four animals, it does become more complicated, but can still be broken down into small, manageable steps. Incidentally, when storing for a pet the amount should equal about 2 ½ times their daily food intake. So, if Rover eats two cups of food a day, he will probably need at least five cups of water a day.
Here are some other sources:
http://www.providentliving.org/content/display/0,11666,7534-1-4065-1,00.html
http://www.ocem.org/pdf_resources/17-Food_Water.pdf
http://www.redcross.org/services/prepare/0,1082,0_91_,00.html#water
http://www.fema.gov/plan/prepare/watermanage.shtm
Tuesday, January 6, 2009
October 2007: A Penny Saved is a Penny Earned
Dieters are often encouraged to practice “conscious eating”. Eating is done sitting down, generally with a plate and silverware, and without the distractions of television, work, or reading material. In this way the diner is aware of every bite, preventing the mindless wolfing down of food that happens so easily at the desk or on the couch.
There are many tips and tricks for reducing expenses and saving money, but one of the most important things may be to practice conscious spending, where you are fully aware of where your money goes.
One aspect of this is knowing what things cost. Just by paying attention on the drive to work, we know which of the five gas stations on the way charges the least. Granted, saving the fourteen cents per gallon only saves about a dollar on a typical visit (assuming that you do not foolishly let your tank get close to empty), but consider how many times you get gas in a year.
Sometimes more aggressive research is advisable. One sister recently lost her insurance coverage, so needed to pay for her prescription out of pocket. The price at Rite-Aid was going to be $120.00, $80.00 at Target, and $8.00 at Costco. The crazy thing is, Rite-Aid agreed to price match, so she is paying $8.00 there. You won’t always be able to save $112.00 a month just by asking, but it certainly makes asking seem worthwhile.
For more basic, less dramatic comparisons, I visited seven area stores, as seen below.*
Now, this should in no way be taken as an endorsement of any particular store. Even within a chain, prices can vary by location, and it does not cover meat and produce, where you may see a wider difference in price and quality. However, if you know what a normal price is for an item, you are then able to recognize a good price. One nice thing about accumulating food storage is that if the extra keeps you from running out, you can wait for sales and never have to pay full price on some items.
The key is making sure your choices are not mindless. There are areas where you will not want to reduce, and that is fine if it works within the confines of your budget. Just be sure to actually make a choice instead of just letting things happen. I have one friend who saves a lot by getting second-hand clothing. Many people would not be happy with that, but it works for her.
An excellent way to start spending less is to assess what you are spending now. What amount is going to rent, food, transportation, clothing, education, entertainment, gifts, and utilities, and what are the line items?
Looking over this list, ask yourself what is necessary. Are the prices reasonable? Is rent more than thirty percent of your income? (It shouldn’t be.) What can be cut? What can be kept but for less money?
I would never expect a budget to work that did not allow for tithes and offerings. If those are missing, add them, even if it seems counterintuitive. For other areas, here are some general tips.
Transportation: Riding Tri-met? You should definitely not be paying as you board. Even if you are not riding often enough to justify a pass, getting tickets will save money, especially if you stay primarily within one zone. Driving? Some stations charge less if you pay cash, and for more efficient gas consumption, see http://www.howtoadvice.com/SavingGas.
Utilities: Switch to compact fluorescent light bulbs. They use less energy and last longer. (Switch one light at a time to find the type you like, and look for the phrase “warm light”.) Company web sites may have more tips, like https://www.nwnatural.com/content_yourhome.asp?id=227 or
http://www.portlandgeneral.com/home/energy_savings/ways_save/tips/default.asp.
Clothes: Most stores want to move the merchandise out within four weeks, so after that you can expect to see markdowns, especially after 6-8 weeks.
Books: There are a lot of books you will only read once, and libraries are free. If you do need it though, you can find used copies through the major book sites and half.com.
Groceries: In addition to the information in the chart, consider outlet stores. You should not drive miles to save pennies, but we have a Resers and a Franz nearby, and that could work for you. Also, consider Amazon grocery. They tend to sell only in bulk, but there are some good prices and you can usually get free shipping.
Online bill payment: The savings in stamps and checks will probably be minimal—I primarily did it to reduce the risk of identity theft—but my cable company started taking $5.00 off my monthly bill after I made the change, and others might do so as well.
Banking: Free checking may be available, but not automatic, so verify your status. If you cannot avoid ATM fees, at least try and plan ahead for cash needs so that the number of ATM visits can be reduced.
Credit cards: Debt reduction is a separate topic, but while you have the card you may be able to obtain a lower interest rate by switching providers. Going through your bank or credit union will often secure the best deal, but keep an eye out for annual fees or transaction fees as well. These are very easy to lose track of because you are concentrating on the purchases, and then just paying a portion, but it all adds up.
* The original newsletter had a table inserted, but I could not make it carry over, so I am reproducing the information differently. The shopping list at each store was a gallon of milk; one dozen eggs; a five pound bag of flour and one of sugar; one jar each of peanut butter and applesauce; single cans of carrots, green beans, ravioli, and chili; a pack of hot dogs; a bag of rice, packs of spaghetti and macaroni noodles; and one pack of ramen. Same brands and sizes were used, though store brands were used for the eggs, milk, and vegetables. I only listed regular prices, not sale prices.
I am going to list each store, the total, and then the prices of the individual items in the order above. If anyone wants a copy of the letter sent (which will be more legible), just let me know.
Winco (in Beaverton): $24.62 (2.68, 1.46, 1.48, 2.38, 2.58, 1.88, .63, 1.08, .88, 1.33, 2.38, 2.67, 1.55, 1.55, .09)
Fred Meyer (on Walker Road): $32.12 (2.69, 2.19, 2.29, 2.99, 4.19, 2.99, .85, 1.29, .99, 1.69, 2.99, 2.99, 1.09, 2.69, .20)
Safeway (Tanasbourne): $35.45 (2.99, 2.59, 2.29, 3.66, 4.29, 2.99, 1.29, 1.49, 1.59, 1.89, 3.19, 3.14, 1.89, 1.89, .27)
Haggens (Tanasbourne): $36.21 (2.69, 2.29, 2.29, 2.99, 4.49, 3.29, .99, 1.49, 1.59, 1.99, 4.69, 2.99, 2.09, 2.09, .25)
Thriftway (Farmington): $37.47 (2.99, 2.49, 2.29, 3.59, 4.39, 3.15, 1.39, 1.39, 1.65, 1.95, 4.69, 3.35, 1.95, 1.95, .25)
Albertsons (Farmington): $39.66 (3.65, 2.99, 2.69, 3.49, 4.29, 3.69, .99, .89, 1.79, 2.19, 3.99, 4.19, 2.19, 2.38, .25)
QFC (Bethany): $41.81 (2.99, 3.79, 2.49, 3.69, 4.59, 3.49, 1.49, 1.59, 1.59, 1.89, 3.49, 3.89, 3.29, 3.29, .25)
There are many tips and tricks for reducing expenses and saving money, but one of the most important things may be to practice conscious spending, where you are fully aware of where your money goes.
One aspect of this is knowing what things cost. Just by paying attention on the drive to work, we know which of the five gas stations on the way charges the least. Granted, saving the fourteen cents per gallon only saves about a dollar on a typical visit (assuming that you do not foolishly let your tank get close to empty), but consider how many times you get gas in a year.
Sometimes more aggressive research is advisable. One sister recently lost her insurance coverage, so needed to pay for her prescription out of pocket. The price at Rite-Aid was going to be $120.00, $80.00 at Target, and $8.00 at Costco. The crazy thing is, Rite-Aid agreed to price match, so she is paying $8.00 there. You won’t always be able to save $112.00 a month just by asking, but it certainly makes asking seem worthwhile.
For more basic, less dramatic comparisons, I visited seven area stores, as seen below.*
Now, this should in no way be taken as an endorsement of any particular store. Even within a chain, prices can vary by location, and it does not cover meat and produce, where you may see a wider difference in price and quality. However, if you know what a normal price is for an item, you are then able to recognize a good price. One nice thing about accumulating food storage is that if the extra keeps you from running out, you can wait for sales and never have to pay full price on some items.
The key is making sure your choices are not mindless. There are areas where you will not want to reduce, and that is fine if it works within the confines of your budget. Just be sure to actually make a choice instead of just letting things happen. I have one friend who saves a lot by getting second-hand clothing. Many people would not be happy with that, but it works for her.
An excellent way to start spending less is to assess what you are spending now. What amount is going to rent, food, transportation, clothing, education, entertainment, gifts, and utilities, and what are the line items?
Looking over this list, ask yourself what is necessary. Are the prices reasonable? Is rent more than thirty percent of your income? (It shouldn’t be.) What can be cut? What can be kept but for less money?
I would never expect a budget to work that did not allow for tithes and offerings. If those are missing, add them, even if it seems counterintuitive. For other areas, here are some general tips.
Transportation: Riding Tri-met? You should definitely not be paying as you board. Even if you are not riding often enough to justify a pass, getting tickets will save money, especially if you stay primarily within one zone. Driving? Some stations charge less if you pay cash, and for more efficient gas consumption, see http://www.howtoadvice.com/SavingGas.
Utilities: Switch to compact fluorescent light bulbs. They use less energy and last longer. (Switch one light at a time to find the type you like, and look for the phrase “warm light”.) Company web sites may have more tips, like https://www.nwnatural.com/content_yourhome.asp?id=227 or
http://www.portlandgeneral.com/home/energy_savings/ways_save/tips/default.asp.
Clothes: Most stores want to move the merchandise out within four weeks, so after that you can expect to see markdowns, especially after 6-8 weeks.
Books: There are a lot of books you will only read once, and libraries are free. If you do need it though, you can find used copies through the major book sites and half.com.
Groceries: In addition to the information in the chart, consider outlet stores. You should not drive miles to save pennies, but we have a Resers and a Franz nearby, and that could work for you. Also, consider Amazon grocery. They tend to sell only in bulk, but there are some good prices and you can usually get free shipping.
Online bill payment: The savings in stamps and checks will probably be minimal—I primarily did it to reduce the risk of identity theft—but my cable company started taking $5.00 off my monthly bill after I made the change, and others might do so as well.
Banking: Free checking may be available, but not automatic, so verify your status. If you cannot avoid ATM fees, at least try and plan ahead for cash needs so that the number of ATM visits can be reduced.
Credit cards: Debt reduction is a separate topic, but while you have the card you may be able to obtain a lower interest rate by switching providers. Going through your bank or credit union will often secure the best deal, but keep an eye out for annual fees or transaction fees as well. These are very easy to lose track of because you are concentrating on the purchases, and then just paying a portion, but it all adds up.
* The original newsletter had a table inserted, but I could not make it carry over, so I am reproducing the information differently. The shopping list at each store was a gallon of milk; one dozen eggs; a five pound bag of flour and one of sugar; one jar each of peanut butter and applesauce; single cans of carrots, green beans, ravioli, and chili; a pack of hot dogs; a bag of rice, packs of spaghetti and macaroni noodles; and one pack of ramen. Same brands and sizes were used, though store brands were used for the eggs, milk, and vegetables. I only listed regular prices, not sale prices.
I am going to list each store, the total, and then the prices of the individual items in the order above. If anyone wants a copy of the letter sent (which will be more legible), just let me know.
Winco (in Beaverton): $24.62 (2.68, 1.46, 1.48, 2.38, 2.58, 1.88, .63, 1.08, .88, 1.33, 2.38, 2.67, 1.55, 1.55, .09)
Fred Meyer (on Walker Road): $32.12 (2.69, 2.19, 2.29, 2.99, 4.19, 2.99, .85, 1.29, .99, 1.69, 2.99, 2.99, 1.09, 2.69, .20)
Safeway (Tanasbourne): $35.45 (2.99, 2.59, 2.29, 3.66, 4.29, 2.99, 1.29, 1.49, 1.59, 1.89, 3.19, 3.14, 1.89, 1.89, .27)
Haggens (Tanasbourne): $36.21 (2.69, 2.29, 2.29, 2.99, 4.49, 3.29, .99, 1.49, 1.59, 1.99, 4.69, 2.99, 2.09, 2.09, .25)
Thriftway (Farmington): $37.47 (2.99, 2.49, 2.29, 3.59, 4.39, 3.15, 1.39, 1.39, 1.65, 1.95, 4.69, 3.35, 1.95, 1.95, .25)
Albertsons (Farmington): $39.66 (3.65, 2.99, 2.69, 3.49, 4.29, 3.69, .99, .89, 1.79, 2.19, 3.99, 4.19, 2.19, 2.38, .25)
QFC (Bethany): $41.81 (2.99, 3.79, 2.49, 3.69, 4.59, 3.49, 1.49, 1.59, 1.59, 1.89, 3.49, 3.89, 3.29, 3.29, .25)
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