As the daily news brings word of devastating cyclones, earthquakes, and tornadoes, it can be easy to be fearful about the future. Instead, it is important to maintain perspective, and to feel gratitude for blessings.
One blessing is that we live in an area with strict building codes and a tendency towards wooden frame architecture. This does increase the possibility of local structures to survive earthquakes, and that even if there is a collapse, following proper safety procedures like taking shelter under a table should get you through. Since the odds are good that you will still be around when the earth stops shaking, it becomes important to know what to do.
First, assess the damage that has been done. Consider the following:
· Are you injured? Is anyone else?
· Is there broken glass around?
· Do the walls or ceiling seem in danger of collapse? Any signs of fire?
· Are the water pipes broken?
· Have the gas pipes been disrupted?
Gas
If the gas pipes have been broken, you will want to turn off the gas right away. Signs to look for include a hissing or blowing noise, or a smell like rotten eggs. This needs to be dealt with immediately, because in addition to the danger of suffocation, a spark can also cause an explosion and start a fire. Because of this, you should not turn on any lights or electrical devices, including battery-operated ones like cell phones and flashlights. You should have a supply of light sticks on hand, which provide light without throwing a spark. (No matches either.)
The gas shutoff will be outside your house. It is not designed to be turned by hand. You can use a pipe or crescent wrench, but Northwest Natural Gas will provide a special tool for that purpose, and the 5-in-1 tool you get with CERT training will also do the trick. Turn the valve from the vertical to the horizontal position. Depending on the size of the leak you can open windows to air out, but it may be best to simply evacuate the building.
It is a good idea to locate the valve and make sure you have an easy way to turn the valve before you need to. You can try a 1/8th turn to experiment and then turn it back, but once you have shut off the valve completely, the gas company wants you to call them to turn it back on. (The emergency line is 800-882-3377.)
Water
This is probably more of a property damage issue than a safety issue, but if you hear water running you should shut it off as well. There should be a shut off valve at the water meter, but there may be closer ones in the basement or garage, or outside near the foundation. You should locate it in advance as well. Fortunately, water can be turned back on without agency assistance.
Broken glass
You should always have a sturdy pair of shoes near your bed. This will keep you from having to choose between hunting in the dark for shoes or walking barefoot over broken glass. Perhaps you have a nearby drawer in which you could keep shoes, light sticks, and a wrench (though you may want to attach the wrench to the gas pipe instead).
Structural damage or fire
New fires, caused by woodstoves overturning or electrical disruption, should be suppressed immediately. If not possible, evacuate.
Look for cracks in the foundation, walls, or ceiling. Remember, there may be aftershocks that will do additional damage, or simply additional settling of the building, and it may be safest to evacuate the house. You should have tents, sleeping bags, and tarps available in case you need to take up residence in the back yard or at a shelter.
Injuries
In the event of a major earthquake, emergency responders will be overwhelmed, so you should count on delays. Having a basic knowledge of first aid, and supplies available, can greatly improve the health and comfort of your household.
Other things to expect
Cell phone communication will probably be down for several days as the system is overwhelmed. Land lines may also be out of order, but it is sometimes possible to dial out of the area even when local calls are impossible. If family members have one designated out of state person to call, this contact can track everyone and provide reports. HAM radio can be a huge help.
Bridges will be closed until they can be inspected, and this will take a while. In addition, there is a good chance that the tunnels on 26 and Barnes (going through the West Hills) will be closed at least temporarily, along with MAX. We have one friend who never crosses the river without a full tank of gas and an emergency pack, and it is not a bad policy. If you work downtown or on the East side, you should have an alternate plan for what to do if you cannot get home. Regardless of where you work, think about what lies between your home and office, what obstacles would be created by an earthquake or other disaster, and what you could do.
Next month we will go over things you can do before the quake to mitigate damage, unless a major quake happens before then, in which case we will find something more practical. Also, in case the natural disasters and rumors of wheat and rice shortages are causing you to feel serious about food storage, we will be looking at setting up a ward cannery date soon.
All of these things are manageable, but you need to prepare.
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
Monday, February 16, 2009
April 2008 - During the Earthquake
Earthquakes have been in the news lately, with a recent study predicting that California’s next large quake will occur within thirty years. There are no updates on when the next large Oregon quake will happen, but any time between now and the next few hundred years should be about right. The lack of predictability is may not be comforting, but preparing for disaster can be very comforting, and that is what we are going to do.
Remaining calm, instead of panicking, is a good rule of thumb for any emergency, but is especially important during an earthquake. The time period that is lasts is usually fairly short, and yet what you do during that brief time is very important. Memorizing what you need to do now, so that the actions become automatic, should be your first preparatory step.
Unfortunately, there is a lot of incorrect information out there. Some of it was previously believed to be true, but has since been updated, like that you should take shelter in doorways. This comes from a picture of a demolished adobe home, with only the door frame left standing. Unless you are living in an old-fashioned adobe structure, the doorway is not particularly reinforced, so is not safer. There is such a thing as a strong, load-bearing door frame, but they are less common with the wood frame homes that dominate local housing. Plus there is the added drawback that if there is a door it could swing back and forth and hit you.
Other incorrect information has been spread by email forward. If you have seeing a mailing about the “triangle of life”, encouraging you to crouch next to objects instead of under them, you may notice that the information does not seem logical, and depending on the version that some of the statements are patently false. Please disregard its advice.
You may also have seen a television movie where the earthquake “expert” jumped out of bed and sheltered in a doorway, but if you continued watching you may have started suspecting the accuracy when the earthquake chased and followed a train, was out-ridden by a cyclist (though he died anyway when the Space Needle fell on him), and actually pretty much anything else that happened.
Where can you go for good information? We have a wonderful resource in Oregon Consolidated Emergency Management, and you can also get information from the Red Cross and FEMA. We will link to them at the end of the newsletter, but for now, here are the basics.
Drop, Cover, and Hold
You may hear a noise before you feel the ground shaking. This can give you just enough of an alert to recognize what is happening, and remember what to do.
The best source of cover is a sturdy piece of furniture that you will fit under, like a table or desk. DROP and get below it.
If there is nothing available, get up against an interior wall. If the ceiling caves in, it should be more towards the middle, giving you some space. Look out for things that might collapse or drop on you, like cabinets or vases or picture frames. Chimneys have a high risk of collapsing, so near the fireplace is not ideal. Also, windows can break and send glass flying, so try to avoid windows.
In addition to ideally taking COVER under a table or desk, because of flying glass and debris, you will also want to COVER your eyes and head. Based on your resources, this could involve wrapping a coat around your head, or simply pressing your arm over your eyes as a shield.
If you are under a piece of furniture, HOLD on to it and be prepared to move with it, if necessary, until the ground quits shaking.
These steps may be fairly easy to follow at home or at the office during the day, but you don’t know where you will be, or what you will be doing, so here are a few other possibilities.
In the kitchen: The normal house rules apply, except that there are more hazards here. The refrigerator and stove can shake loose, and overhead cupboards can open and spill their contents. Pick your spot away from these hazards.
In bed: You are probably safest staying there, using the pillow to shelter your head. However, if there is a heavy light fixture overhead, you should consider moving to the nearest safe place. Evaluate your sleeping area before it happens, while you are not groggy.
In a store: The primary danger here is shelves, though there are probably also larger windows. Try and move away from shelves and displays, then drop, cover, and hold.
Theater or stadium: These structures can be a bit more dangerous due to the wider area without the support that would come from interior walls. If you can get down in the row between the seats, do so, but you may have to just stay in the chair and try and protect your head. Normally the rule is not to rush outside after the quake, but there is an exception here. Do wait for the shaking to stop, but then exit in an orderly manner.
Outdoors: It can be great being out in the open, where there are less things to fall, but avoid poles, signs, power lines, and buildings that could fall. If you are near buildings, going into the entrance of one may be safest. The rule is still to protect your head.
Driving: You should pull over and stop as quickly as possible, but do not stop on an overpass or bridge, or under power lines or other hazards. Stay in the car, which should absorb the shocks fairly well and insulate you from electricity in case of downed power lines.
In a wheelchair: Stay in the chair. If there is shelter, move to it, lock your wheels, and shield your head with your arms.
Please note that none of these scenarios mention running out of the building, going into a stairwell, or using elevators during the quake, all of which are really bad ideas.
Now, about that staying calm, remember that the earthquake will probably not last longer than three or four minutes. You may find it helpful to count slowly to fifty. If there are others around, talk to them, letting them know you are scared but that it will end. You may be able to help calm them or even keep them from doing something foolish and getting injured.
In an office environment, it is highly probably that the tremor will trigger alarm and sprinkler systems, which may add to the confusion. This is perfectly normal, and not a sign that things are getting worse.
Here are the links that were mentioned earlier. Stay tuned for future letters where we discuss what to do before and after the quake.
http://www.ocem.org/prepare/families_and_individuals.htm
http://www.redcross.org/services/disaster/0,1082,0_583_,00.html
http://www.fema.gov/hazard/earthquake/index.shtm
http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/triangle.asp
Remaining calm, instead of panicking, is a good rule of thumb for any emergency, but is especially important during an earthquake. The time period that is lasts is usually fairly short, and yet what you do during that brief time is very important. Memorizing what you need to do now, so that the actions become automatic, should be your first preparatory step.
Unfortunately, there is a lot of incorrect information out there. Some of it was previously believed to be true, but has since been updated, like that you should take shelter in doorways. This comes from a picture of a demolished adobe home, with only the door frame left standing. Unless you are living in an old-fashioned adobe structure, the doorway is not particularly reinforced, so is not safer. There is such a thing as a strong, load-bearing door frame, but they are less common with the wood frame homes that dominate local housing. Plus there is the added drawback that if there is a door it could swing back and forth and hit you.
Other incorrect information has been spread by email forward. If you have seeing a mailing about the “triangle of life”, encouraging you to crouch next to objects instead of under them, you may notice that the information does not seem logical, and depending on the version that some of the statements are patently false. Please disregard its advice.
You may also have seen a television movie where the earthquake “expert” jumped out of bed and sheltered in a doorway, but if you continued watching you may have started suspecting the accuracy when the earthquake chased and followed a train, was out-ridden by a cyclist (though he died anyway when the Space Needle fell on him), and actually pretty much anything else that happened.
Where can you go for good information? We have a wonderful resource in Oregon Consolidated Emergency Management, and you can also get information from the Red Cross and FEMA. We will link to them at the end of the newsletter, but for now, here are the basics.
Drop, Cover, and Hold
You may hear a noise before you feel the ground shaking. This can give you just enough of an alert to recognize what is happening, and remember what to do.
The best source of cover is a sturdy piece of furniture that you will fit under, like a table or desk. DROP and get below it.
If there is nothing available, get up against an interior wall. If the ceiling caves in, it should be more towards the middle, giving you some space. Look out for things that might collapse or drop on you, like cabinets or vases or picture frames. Chimneys have a high risk of collapsing, so near the fireplace is not ideal. Also, windows can break and send glass flying, so try to avoid windows.
In addition to ideally taking COVER under a table or desk, because of flying glass and debris, you will also want to COVER your eyes and head. Based on your resources, this could involve wrapping a coat around your head, or simply pressing your arm over your eyes as a shield.
If you are under a piece of furniture, HOLD on to it and be prepared to move with it, if necessary, until the ground quits shaking.
These steps may be fairly easy to follow at home or at the office during the day, but you don’t know where you will be, or what you will be doing, so here are a few other possibilities.
In the kitchen: The normal house rules apply, except that there are more hazards here. The refrigerator and stove can shake loose, and overhead cupboards can open and spill their contents. Pick your spot away from these hazards.
In bed: You are probably safest staying there, using the pillow to shelter your head. However, if there is a heavy light fixture overhead, you should consider moving to the nearest safe place. Evaluate your sleeping area before it happens, while you are not groggy.
In a store: The primary danger here is shelves, though there are probably also larger windows. Try and move away from shelves and displays, then drop, cover, and hold.
Theater or stadium: These structures can be a bit more dangerous due to the wider area without the support that would come from interior walls. If you can get down in the row between the seats, do so, but you may have to just stay in the chair and try and protect your head. Normally the rule is not to rush outside after the quake, but there is an exception here. Do wait for the shaking to stop, but then exit in an orderly manner.
Outdoors: It can be great being out in the open, where there are less things to fall, but avoid poles, signs, power lines, and buildings that could fall. If you are near buildings, going into the entrance of one may be safest. The rule is still to protect your head.
Driving: You should pull over and stop as quickly as possible, but do not stop on an overpass or bridge, or under power lines or other hazards. Stay in the car, which should absorb the shocks fairly well and insulate you from electricity in case of downed power lines.
In a wheelchair: Stay in the chair. If there is shelter, move to it, lock your wheels, and shield your head with your arms.
Please note that none of these scenarios mention running out of the building, going into a stairwell, or using elevators during the quake, all of which are really bad ideas.
Now, about that staying calm, remember that the earthquake will probably not last longer than three or four minutes. You may find it helpful to count slowly to fifty. If there are others around, talk to them, letting them know you are scared but that it will end. You may be able to help calm them or even keep them from doing something foolish and getting injured.
In an office environment, it is highly probably that the tremor will trigger alarm and sprinkler systems, which may add to the confusion. This is perfectly normal, and not a sign that things are getting worse.
Here are the links that were mentioned earlier. Stay tuned for future letters where we discuss what to do before and after the quake.
http://www.ocem.org/prepare/families_and_individuals.htm
http://www.redcross.org/services/disaster/0,1082,0_583_,00.html
http://www.fema.gov/hazard/earthquake/index.shtm
http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/triangle.asp
Sunday, February 8, 2009
March 2008 - Continuing Education
Several months ago we surveyed you looking for the general state of preparedness and areas of interest. One unexpected result was that although only 33 of you said that your current employment did not meet your financial and emotional needs, 59 of you wanted more education for your desired personal or professional life. It appears that many of you have interests in education beyond advancing your careers. Because of that, we will focus on education for life enrichment, rather than career advancement, which may become its own topic in the future.
Even if you are not planning on pursuing a degree, you may still be interested in local college classes. Portland Community College is one option, with a wide range of non-credit classes listed under Community Education: http://www.pcc.edu/pcc/pro/comed/
As the courses are not for credit, there are not tests or grades or pressure, so the classes can be an enjoyable way to explore a future hobby or career, without making too big of a commitment. You can learn a foreign language, improve your writing skills, or try out vegetarian cooking.
If you know you have a high level of interest, you may wish to seek out a different source. For example, PCC has kayaking classes, but there are also local businesses that will teach that, with more options for customization. Dance studios have lessons, and then hold dances where you can put it to use. Cooking classes are offered by the Portland Culinary Institute, as an extension of its cooking school, but also by stores like In Good Taste, Whole Foods, and Uwajimaya.
Pretty much any craft store will have either its own classes or information about classes for that type of craft. This applies to large stores like Michaels and Craft Warehouse, as well as specialty store like Sharon’s Attic (for quilts) or Planet Bead (for beading). These classes will often be inexpensive because their main purpose is to encourage product sales, but if you want to participate in the hobby, it can still work for you. It is the same concept as Home Depot’s in-store clinics.
In no case should any of these mentions be taken as endorsements, so there are not many links. Google searches with the city and topic (e.g. “Hillsboro painting classes”) will bring up many options, but for recommendations you will probably want to ask around. The point is to illustrate that if you want to do something and don’t know how, chances are there are multiple options for learning it. It does not even have to cost money. Some time ago we had some ward members swapping singing lessons for cooking lessons. Maybe you can trade your knowledge to someone else.
So far the focus has been more on hobbies. Maybe you simply want to be better-informed. Reading is a wonderful way to do this, and can be completely free if you take advantage of local library services. Having so many different books to choose from can be overwhelming, but joining a book club can help you with selections. You can form a club with friends or participate with Relief Society, and book stores will often have in-store groups and online groups. You can also ask a librarian for recommendations, or combine the two by checking out the Everybody Reads project, where one book is selected each year for an entire city to read. Workshops and speakers are often scheduled to enhance the experience, and you may find strangers all over the city reading the same book: http://www.multcolib.org/books/lists/everybodyreads.html
Book stores will frequently have authors come and do readings or answer questions. These are often printed in the Sunday Oregonian, but you can also check schedules at store sites, like http://www.powells.com/calendar.html.
You can also use local classes to serve others. Master Recyclers and Master Gardeners receive intensive training on their subjects and then volunteer to teach others in the community. The Red Cross will teach your first aid and CPR, and you can take additional training if you would like to volunteer.
http://www.masterrecycler.org/
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/washington/index.php
http://www.redcross-pdx.org/services/Safety_training_home.shtml
However, if you wish to learn, serve others, and increase your own emergency preparedness, you may wish to consider CERT training.
CERT stands for Community Emergency Response Team, and is based on the principle that with an area-wide disaster professional responders will be overwhelmed, so having civilians with basic training and organization can save lives. You will receive training in disaster medicine, light search and rescue, fire suppression, and organization and disaster psychology. Not only is there no charge, but for completing the class you will receive a hard hat, gloves and safety glasses, and a handy multipurpose tool that can dig, pry, and shut off gas and water.
Eligibility is determined by the city boundaries and school districts of where you live and work, so if you live in Beaverton but work in Hillsboro, you are eligible for either program. Forest Grove and its surroundings go with Hillsboro. For other areas, please ask.
http://www.hillsborocert.org/
http://www.beavertonoregon.gov/departments/emergency/cert/
Unfortunately both cities have just started new classes, but Hillsboro has only had the first session, you could probably still get in if you hurry. It’s a great way to be ready to help.
Volunteering is also a great way to make connections if you are considering going back to school. You can get a feel for something, along with experience, before committing to a full academic program. To search by area of interest and location, try http://www.volunteermatch.org/. Then, when you are ready to go back to school, see http://www.fafsa.ed.gov/. Prospects for aid improve after you turn 23.
All you have to do is decide on an interest. Once that has been done the options are endless.
Even if you are not planning on pursuing a degree, you may still be interested in local college classes. Portland Community College is one option, with a wide range of non-credit classes listed under Community Education: http://www.pcc.edu/pcc/pro/comed/
As the courses are not for credit, there are not tests or grades or pressure, so the classes can be an enjoyable way to explore a future hobby or career, without making too big of a commitment. You can learn a foreign language, improve your writing skills, or try out vegetarian cooking.
If you know you have a high level of interest, you may wish to seek out a different source. For example, PCC has kayaking classes, but there are also local businesses that will teach that, with more options for customization. Dance studios have lessons, and then hold dances where you can put it to use. Cooking classes are offered by the Portland Culinary Institute, as an extension of its cooking school, but also by stores like In Good Taste, Whole Foods, and Uwajimaya.
Pretty much any craft store will have either its own classes or information about classes for that type of craft. This applies to large stores like Michaels and Craft Warehouse, as well as specialty store like Sharon’s Attic (for quilts) or Planet Bead (for beading). These classes will often be inexpensive because their main purpose is to encourage product sales, but if you want to participate in the hobby, it can still work for you. It is the same concept as Home Depot’s in-store clinics.
In no case should any of these mentions be taken as endorsements, so there are not many links. Google searches with the city and topic (e.g. “Hillsboro painting classes”) will bring up many options, but for recommendations you will probably want to ask around. The point is to illustrate that if you want to do something and don’t know how, chances are there are multiple options for learning it. It does not even have to cost money. Some time ago we had some ward members swapping singing lessons for cooking lessons. Maybe you can trade your knowledge to someone else.
So far the focus has been more on hobbies. Maybe you simply want to be better-informed. Reading is a wonderful way to do this, and can be completely free if you take advantage of local library services. Having so many different books to choose from can be overwhelming, but joining a book club can help you with selections. You can form a club with friends or participate with Relief Society, and book stores will often have in-store groups and online groups. You can also ask a librarian for recommendations, or combine the two by checking out the Everybody Reads project, where one book is selected each year for an entire city to read. Workshops and speakers are often scheduled to enhance the experience, and you may find strangers all over the city reading the same book: http://www.multcolib.org/books/lists/everybodyreads.html
Book stores will frequently have authors come and do readings or answer questions. These are often printed in the Sunday Oregonian, but you can also check schedules at store sites, like http://www.powells.com/calendar.html.
You can also use local classes to serve others. Master Recyclers and Master Gardeners receive intensive training on their subjects and then volunteer to teach others in the community. The Red Cross will teach your first aid and CPR, and you can take additional training if you would like to volunteer.
http://www.masterrecycler.org/
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/washington/index.php
http://www.redcross-pdx.org/services/Safety_training_home.shtml
However, if you wish to learn, serve others, and increase your own emergency preparedness, you may wish to consider CERT training.
CERT stands for Community Emergency Response Team, and is based on the principle that with an area-wide disaster professional responders will be overwhelmed, so having civilians with basic training and organization can save lives. You will receive training in disaster medicine, light search and rescue, fire suppression, and organization and disaster psychology. Not only is there no charge, but for completing the class you will receive a hard hat, gloves and safety glasses, and a handy multipurpose tool that can dig, pry, and shut off gas and water.
Eligibility is determined by the city boundaries and school districts of where you live and work, so if you live in Beaverton but work in Hillsboro, you are eligible for either program. Forest Grove and its surroundings go with Hillsboro. For other areas, please ask.
http://www.hillsborocert.org/
http://www.beavertonoregon.gov/departments/emergency/cert/
Unfortunately both cities have just started new classes, but Hillsboro has only had the first session, you could probably still get in if you hurry. It’s a great way to be ready to help.
Volunteering is also a great way to make connections if you are considering going back to school. You can get a feel for something, along with experience, before committing to a full academic program. To search by area of interest and location, try http://www.volunteermatch.org/. Then, when you are ready to go back to school, see http://www.fafsa.ed.gov/. Prospects for aid improve after you turn 23.
All you have to do is decide on an interest. Once that has been done the options are endless.
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
February 2008 - Fire Safety
As we consider possible natural disasters, it can be disconcerting how little control one has over what will happen, and how little advance notice there generally is. All one can do is prepare to mitigate the circumstances, which can still be worth a lot. One the other hand, house fires are almost completely preventable, so it makes sense to ensure that this area is under control.
I recently had CERT fire suppression training from a local fireman. I asked him what were the most common causes of house fires on the calls he took. After asking if “people” counted as the answer, he confirmed that the most common cause was kitchen fires, especially from people leaving things unattended on the stove, even if only for a minute. Our first safety tip is to never leave food you are cooking unattended, especially if it involves grease.
Simple adherence to the Word of Wisdom makes it unlikely that you will leave a burning cigarette unattended, but if you have a fondness for candles, they can be another potential hazard. Treat your burning vanilla candle like a pan of bacon frying, and do not leave it unattended.
Remember, fire is a chemical reaction involving fuel, heat, and oxygen. As you go through your house identifying hazards, you should be primarily looking for sources of fuel and heat, as you will not want to eliminate the oxygen. In the main living areas of your home, the primary fuel sources would be large stacks of papers. Garages and sheds tend to be more dangerous, as there could be greasy rags, gasoline for lawnmowers, fertilizer, or other chemicals.
Obviously, you may need many of these items, and not want to get rid of them, but you can follow the L.I.E.S. principle:
Limit the amount of hazardous materials you buy and store. The fifty pound bag of fertilizer may be a better value, but if you are only going to need two pounds for the year, that is what you should buy.
Isolate the materials by keeping them separate from sources of heat, in a locked cabinet when possible.
Eliminate the materials that you no longer need. Metro Recycling frequently has hazardous waste roundups where you can drop off the items free of charge. For more information, call 503-234-3000.
Separate items that will react together. This seems to contradict the Isolate step, but if you are storing oxidizers with flammables, or bleach with ammonia, you are creating a new hazard. Perhaps you will need two locked cabinets.
Of course, even rugs and furniture can burn, so you will want to check for sources of sparks or heat also. We have covered potential open flames like candles or grease fires, but if you have natural gas appliances there will be pilot lights. New building codes require that gas heaters in garages be raised so that the gas fumes from the car (which are heavy, and sink to the ground) cannot reach the pilot light and react. If you have an older home, you may need to get this done.
If you have a fireplace or wood stove, ashes may look dead but contain live embers that work their way to the outside as much as three days later. When cleaning out these ashes they should always be put in a metal container (never paper or plastic) and stored at least three feet away from the house.
Electrical cords and appliances, especially those that produce heat, are also something to watch for. When checking your home, look for any cords that are frayed or show signs of damage, but also look for ones that are bent at angles or have objects over them (wrapped around a nail, under a rolling chair, etc.). There is a high probability of damage, even if none is showing.
Do not overload outlets, which includes using multiple power strips together. When appliances are not in use, unplug them. Even when off, they will continue to draw power while plugged in. This can also be beneficial to your electrical bill.
Remember, the ones that produce heat are the most dangerous. This is partly because they draw more power, but also because of the heat they produce. So space heaters should be kept away from walls, and not left unattended. Dryers should be kept clean, having their hoses vacuumed out about every two years, and the lint traps cleaned out daily, if not after every load. Dryer sheets can create a waxy buildup on the trap that may not be visible, so it can be useful to periodically run the trap under the faucet and make sure water goes through. If it does not, clean with a toothbrush to clear out. Dry the trap well before returning to the dryer.
It is very unlikely, but not impossible, for spontaneous combustion to occur in a closed dryer with some moisture left, so when the load is done, open the dryer door, even if you are not yet ready to remove the load.
What if despite all your best efforts, fire breaks out? If it is a grease fire originating from you cooking, immediately place a lid over the pan to take away the oxygen. Turn off the heat unless the flames prevent you from doing so safely. There is a British PSA making the rounds on the internet saying to wet a rag and place it over pan. Do not do this! While the ad is correct that you should not throw water on the fire, the wet rag is much more dangerous than a lid.
You can also throw baking soda on the fire, which will suffocate the flames, but not all white powders are created equal, and flour can explode. The pan lid is really best.
Fire extinguishers are also really good, and surprisingly effective. Look for one that can be used on both grease and electrical fires.
If you have an electrical fire, again, do not throw water on it, since water conducts electricity. Unplugging the item would make water safe, but unplugging it might get you shocked as well, so it would be better to have someone go to the fuse box and cut power that way.
If the fire is too big to fight, get low where the air is cooler and cleaner, and leave the house. You and your family or roommates should have a prearranged meeting place so you can easily tell if there is anyone still in the home. Along with setting the place, plan so that you also know the exits, and how easy it is to get out a window if necessary. One good drill is to blindfold yourself and see if you can crawl from the bedroom to the door—how well would you know your way if smoke obscured your vision? Touch doors with the back of your hand, and if you feel heat go the other way.
Obviously, you should have working smoke detectors that you can hear.
If you suspect a gas leak at all, do not turn on any lights, or flashlights, or even a cell phone, as the spark could ignite an explosion. Just get out first, and then call for help.
Also, you know this from school, but if you catch fire, stop, drop, and roll. You don’t need to be scared if you can stay smart.
I recently had CERT fire suppression training from a local fireman. I asked him what were the most common causes of house fires on the calls he took. After asking if “people” counted as the answer, he confirmed that the most common cause was kitchen fires, especially from people leaving things unattended on the stove, even if only for a minute. Our first safety tip is to never leave food you are cooking unattended, especially if it involves grease.
Simple adherence to the Word of Wisdom makes it unlikely that you will leave a burning cigarette unattended, but if you have a fondness for candles, they can be another potential hazard. Treat your burning vanilla candle like a pan of bacon frying, and do not leave it unattended.
Remember, fire is a chemical reaction involving fuel, heat, and oxygen. As you go through your house identifying hazards, you should be primarily looking for sources of fuel and heat, as you will not want to eliminate the oxygen. In the main living areas of your home, the primary fuel sources would be large stacks of papers. Garages and sheds tend to be more dangerous, as there could be greasy rags, gasoline for lawnmowers, fertilizer, or other chemicals.
Obviously, you may need many of these items, and not want to get rid of them, but you can follow the L.I.E.S. principle:
Limit the amount of hazardous materials you buy and store. The fifty pound bag of fertilizer may be a better value, but if you are only going to need two pounds for the year, that is what you should buy.
Isolate the materials by keeping them separate from sources of heat, in a locked cabinet when possible.
Eliminate the materials that you no longer need. Metro Recycling frequently has hazardous waste roundups where you can drop off the items free of charge. For more information, call 503-234-3000.
Separate items that will react together. This seems to contradict the Isolate step, but if you are storing oxidizers with flammables, or bleach with ammonia, you are creating a new hazard. Perhaps you will need two locked cabinets.
Of course, even rugs and furniture can burn, so you will want to check for sources of sparks or heat also. We have covered potential open flames like candles or grease fires, but if you have natural gas appliances there will be pilot lights. New building codes require that gas heaters in garages be raised so that the gas fumes from the car (which are heavy, and sink to the ground) cannot reach the pilot light and react. If you have an older home, you may need to get this done.
If you have a fireplace or wood stove, ashes may look dead but contain live embers that work their way to the outside as much as three days later. When cleaning out these ashes they should always be put in a metal container (never paper or plastic) and stored at least three feet away from the house.
Electrical cords and appliances, especially those that produce heat, are also something to watch for. When checking your home, look for any cords that are frayed or show signs of damage, but also look for ones that are bent at angles or have objects over them (wrapped around a nail, under a rolling chair, etc.). There is a high probability of damage, even if none is showing.
Do not overload outlets, which includes using multiple power strips together. When appliances are not in use, unplug them. Even when off, they will continue to draw power while plugged in. This can also be beneficial to your electrical bill.
Remember, the ones that produce heat are the most dangerous. This is partly because they draw more power, but also because of the heat they produce. So space heaters should be kept away from walls, and not left unattended. Dryers should be kept clean, having their hoses vacuumed out about every two years, and the lint traps cleaned out daily, if not after every load. Dryer sheets can create a waxy buildup on the trap that may not be visible, so it can be useful to periodically run the trap under the faucet and make sure water goes through. If it does not, clean with a toothbrush to clear out. Dry the trap well before returning to the dryer.
It is very unlikely, but not impossible, for spontaneous combustion to occur in a closed dryer with some moisture left, so when the load is done, open the dryer door, even if you are not yet ready to remove the load.
What if despite all your best efforts, fire breaks out? If it is a grease fire originating from you cooking, immediately place a lid over the pan to take away the oxygen. Turn off the heat unless the flames prevent you from doing so safely. There is a British PSA making the rounds on the internet saying to wet a rag and place it over pan. Do not do this! While the ad is correct that you should not throw water on the fire, the wet rag is much more dangerous than a lid.
You can also throw baking soda on the fire, which will suffocate the flames, but not all white powders are created equal, and flour can explode. The pan lid is really best.
Fire extinguishers are also really good, and surprisingly effective. Look for one that can be used on both grease and electrical fires.
If you have an electrical fire, again, do not throw water on it, since water conducts electricity. Unplugging the item would make water safe, but unplugging it might get you shocked as well, so it would be better to have someone go to the fuse box and cut power that way.
If the fire is too big to fight, get low where the air is cooler and cleaner, and leave the house. You and your family or roommates should have a prearranged meeting place so you can easily tell if there is anyone still in the home. Along with setting the place, plan so that you also know the exits, and how easy it is to get out a window if necessary. One good drill is to blindfold yourself and see if you can crawl from the bedroom to the door—how well would you know your way if smoke obscured your vision? Touch doors with the back of your hand, and if you feel heat go the other way.
Obviously, you should have working smoke detectors that you can hear.
If you suspect a gas leak at all, do not turn on any lights, or flashlights, or even a cell phone, as the spark could ignite an explosion. Just get out first, and then call for help.
Also, you know this from school, but if you catch fire, stop, drop, and roll. You don’t need to be scared if you can stay smart.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)